Sicily is having a moment. From TV shows like “White Lotus” to influencers using the island’s dramatic landscape as a backdrop, the island has become a magnet for tourists, so much so that fresh direct flights connect Palermo to major centers around the world. Sicilians, like their Italian neighbors on the mainland, love food and everyday life revolves around it. Walking through the streets of Palermo means being subjected to a sensory overload of bakeries, food carts, glistening swordfish on ice, perfumed lemon trees, chestnut smoke and the constant hum of scooters. Locals love coffee too.
Palermo’s cafes are dominated by gloomy espresso with very solid, well-drawn shots that hot up the locals every day. At home – as in many parts of Europe – the moka pot remains a daily ritual, bubbling and spitting balmy coffee onto the stovetops. However, with the inevitable wave of globalization, specialty coffee has washed up on the coast of Sicily. Many people say that it is the largest island in the Mediterranean and that it has been “conquered by everyone”. Each wave of rulers – Greek, Arab, Norman and Spanish – left their mark. That is why, for example, in Trapani, in accordance with Arab traditions, couscous is eaten. Given centuries of foreign influences woven into local customs – now fueled by globalism – it seems fitting that an international specialty coffee culture could take root here too.
A visit to Palermo means eating and drinking delicious local specialties, including gloomy ristretto shots, as well as solid pastas and caps. Although they are made with love, they are not completely unique. But if you know where to look, you can also find lighter roasted coffees here. To support you navigate Palermo’s maze of side streets and squares, we’ve put together this guide to the city’s emerging specialties. Andiamo!
Morettino’s laboratory
Of all the coffee shops on this list, “Laboratory” by Morettino location may have the most impressive coffee program. The name itself suggests a clinical approach to coffee, although the service is definitely hot. What sets this roastery apart is that it is widely recognized as the first true specialty shop in Palermo. However, this is not a fresh venture at all – quite the contrary. Morettino has a luxurious history dating back to 1920 and spanning four generations of roasting. Combining all this experience with a newfangled approach, it offers a very progressive menu for the discerning. However, finding a cafe is not that straightforward.
To get there, you have to head towards the port and past the dockers’ warehouses before reaching its stunning surroundings. The café is part of the Palermo Yacht Club, which includes – as you might imagine – exclusive boutiques and restaurants. The elegant outdoor patio offers stunning views of the surrounding limestone hills and the harbor itself. Between the buzzing of sailboats moving in the wind and the squawking of seagulls, sitting outside brings a change of atmosphere from the city center. Inside you will see a shiny three Disgusting on an impressive quartz countertop, and on the opposite side there is a cocktail bar if you want something stronger than coffee. High-quality French and Italian pastries are available and can be paired with cappuccino, which is served on stained wooden boards for an elegant touch. You can also get cortados, frosty brew and Americanos, either made with conventional spro or with an upgraded special. Spending a few hours here, sipping coffee and admiring the views is Palermo perfection.
The perfect Caffè Stagnitta
Like the Morretino family coffee company, The perfect Caffè Stagnitta has been caffeinating residents for over 100 years. Like many other gems in Palermo, Ideal Caffè Stagnitta is located on a narrow side street in the historic district of the city center. This place combines conventional Italian coffee traditions with a specialty-focused approach. As you step inside, you’ll feel the atmosphere of history, with a charming wooden bar displaying glass jars of beans and a massive vintage food scale. Years ago, the offering was probably more monochromatic, with Robusta blends roasted to varying degrees of darkening. But Ideal now offers a wide range of beans and roast profiles, sourced from Hawaii, Nicaragua and Colombian rum. It’s a one-stop shop where twenty-somethings can enjoy a cold, lighter roast, while their parents can reach for a more advanced version of the home mix.
Behind the bar is the beating heart of the operation – a massive, weathered roasting pan weighing 20 kg. In addition to freshly roasted beans, the offer also includes fresh moka pots, gourmet chocolate, spices such as hazelnut paste and packaged cookies. To order a coffee, walk past the sister café, Stagnitta’s house— a standing-room-only space serving classic dishes such as cappuccino, macchiato and ristretto shots. Even though the space is confined, they don’t skimp on the menu offerings. You can order granita, brioche, croissants and tempting cakes with your coffee. Outside there is a huge patio that invites you to sip an espresso before strolling to the nearby Ballaró Market for some killer street food. It’s a must-visit for those strolling through Palermo’s cafés, offering a window into the city’s coffee past and future.
Wera Coffi
Found in the central district of Politeama-Libertà, Wera Coffi stands on a street intended only for pedestrians. This space serves as an oasis among banks and offices, away from the noise of passing scooters. The café serves drinks prepared from a local roastery Histo coffeealong with enhanced espresso and filter options from Casper Specialty Coffee. Customers who walk in and simply say “caffè” – which is how most Italians order coffee – are treated unscathed. It’s always impressive how quickly Italians move on both sides of the counter: coffee is a swift way with customers coming and going, and baristas always move quickly.
Histo’s standard house coffee is a 50/50 blend of Robusta and Arabica beans – common in Palermo – with the latter helping to balance the earthy, bitter notes of the former. But at Vera you can also have something truly unique and off the menu. Chat to the team of teenage baristas behind the counter who will be ecstatic to support in English. They may lead you to products such as lightly roasted, sparkling Gesha, added to specialty coffee in 1:2 proportions. This will be appreciated by people who are not used to super-strong, local ristretto shots. Filter coffee lovers won’t be disappointed either – although Palermo is an espresso city, Vera serves a variety of pour-over options, from the trusty Chemex to V60 brews. Vacationers who want to relax can do so on the patio in front of the café, people-watching in the afternoon. For warm service and an exhilarating menu, Vera Coffice is worth a stop.
Bar Vabres
Bar Vabres it’s tucked away in a tranquil neighborhood away from the city tourists and tchotchke shops. Since 1969, it has been serving residents a mixture of artisan baked goods and conventional coffee. The shop is renowned for its arancini, a perfect midday stop for both caffeine and calories. The space is divided into two parts: a compact corner on the left is dedicated to preparing the best brews in Palermo, and the main part is dedicated to the bakery. Vabres offers customers a classic, standing-room-only Italian experience where you can try practicing your Italian with the barista while he does his thing.
Local roasters can be found on store shelves and in hoppers, offering both gloomy blends and lightweight roasts from guest roasters such as Fries. The heart of the operation is a modest two-group machine with Mazzera Robur AND Malköniga EK43 as supporting cast. Produced on this wonderful equipment, you can get flat whites, frosty drinks, mochas, poppies and caps, with any non-dairy milk you desire. While waiting for your shot, you’ll come into contact with nonnas and taxi drivers eating lunch. The cafe is located near Palermo Central Station, making it a landmark before leaving the city (or upon arrival). It’s not straightforward to find the line between old-school coffee and newer specialty offerings. If you do it right by preparing really delicious snacks, Bar Vabres will be even more impressive. If you are looking for high quality espresso and some of the best arancini in Palermo, this is a must-try.
I vaguely say Rizzuto
On Via Giovanni Meli, a tranquil street starting from the stunning Colonna dell’Immaculata square, you will find I vaguely say Rizzuto. Centrally located in the Castellammare O Loggia neighborhood, this densely packed cafe is a real gem. The shop, although a bit tight and standing room only, has everything you could imagine coffee-related. With a menu written in English, Vago Rizzuto caters to the needs of digital nomads and foreign tourists. Featuring dozens of drink options, from shakeratos, iced oat milk lattes, V60 pourers, and multiple espresso options, there’s something for everyone.
There’s even alcohol here, with wine by the glass and local beers, as well as fresh juices for when your caffeine levels peak. For a snack, try focaccia sandwiches and delicious Italian pastries. Coffee on the pier from Puglia is one of many Vago roasteries, and you may even be lucky to have an exotic Burmese Ywagan in your tank. You can always ask for an off-menu option brewed in the AeroPress, freshly ground in the EK43 shop, or keep it classic with a Robusta blend as the base for the Americano. There are several seats at the front, accommodating both tourists and locals taking a break from the hustle and bustle of Palermo Street. With an impressive range of drinks and a warm atmosphere, Vago Rizzuto is a worthy stop on any Palermo coffee shop.
