Coffee Grows and Thrives in San Diego’s North County

Coffee is typically grown in tropical regions and was previously considered an unprofitable crop in the continental United States. But along the Route 76 corridor in San Diego’s North County, farmers are growing California coffee.

Songwriter Jason Mraz owns one of these farms. in East Oceanside, in the South Morro Hills community. Five years ago, he became one of the first farmers in the region to plant coffee trees.

Mraz’s coffee trees grow to a height of almost 10 feet and grow among avocados, bananas, and other enormous fruit trees in dense tropical terrain.

He grows 11 varieties of coffee on his 18-acre plot of land and recently began selling coffee beans on a commercial scale.

The varieties of coffee fruit, or cherries as farmers call them, that grow on his 3,500 coffee trees are considered occasional.

Often, once roasted, the beans command high prices, especially the variety called Geisha.

“Whether it’s folklore or legend that this is a great bean — or just constant testing, drinking and getting high marks — this coffee still outperforms all other coffees,” Mraz said.

The self-described “singer-farmer” and all coffee farmers in California receive plant material, growing knowledge, and post-harvest processing from a company called FRINJ coffee.

FRINJ co-founder and CEO Jay Ruskey began his journey into California coffee about 20 years ago. In the past few years, the coffee industry has begun to take notice of his plan.

“I sent a few coffees to Coffee ReviewWe were ranked like 27th in the world and it was all over the press. And suddenly I realized there was a chance we could do something bigger,” Ruskey said.

FRINJ Coffee is now partnered with 67 farms statewide and 42 farms in San Diego CountyThis means that the San Diego region accounts for almost two-thirds of California’s coffee plantations.

Golden State coffee cherries are known for their sluggish growth process, which Ruskey says enhances their flavor profile. He compares the growth process, blending methods and market for California coffee to another product: California wine, which is produced in some of the same regions where coffee is grown today.

“Southern California farmers, primarily in Santa Barbara, Ventura and San Diego, were looking for something novel, so FRINJ Coffee and our coffee program was something they could adapt to their needs,” Ruskey said.

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While establishing a coffee plantation in California is challenging, the FRINJ team shares with farmers like Mraz how to plant and care for their coffee.

“In these aging avocado groves that are all over San Diego, you can put a row of coffee trees between them,” Mraz said. “I don’t want to make it sound like it’s basic, but there’s a symbiosis or relativity between coffee and avocado that works really well.”

Bluetail Coffee Grove owner Kyle Rosa learned early on that growing coffee in San Diego could be a challenge. He lost 37% of his crop his first year because unpredictable nighttime temperatures got too frigid.

“Every step of the way, I have something novel to worry about. Can I get them in the ground? Yes. Will they grow? Yes. Will they bear cherries? Yes. Now, my next step is whether the cherries will be of high quality, and that’s my next worry and concern,” he said.

Rosa’s farm is located between Vista and San Marcos. He has not yet sold his product commercially, but he plans to open a “drink” called Breakers Coffee + Wine in Del Mar this spring. The establishment hopes to showcase San Diego coffee varieties and will offer coffee and wine tastings.

“Whether you want a caffeine high or an alcohol high is up to you. But the opportunity to explore novel lands in coffee and wine is what we’re really striving for,” Rosa said.

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Although the coffee industry in California is still in its infancy, Mraz predicts it will continue to grow, perhaps joining other esteemed industries in the state.

He added that agritourism in North County has a chance for the future.

“Even if people just want to drive around and look at fruit trees, this is a unique place to do that — to see things you’ve never seen before,” Mraz said. “As this continues, I hope to see tasting experiences, farm tours, just more and more people appreciating where their coffee comes from, where their food comes from.”

While coffee prices in California are high and availability is currently restricted, San Diego residents may soon see California coffee on local coffee shop menus.