Affectionately called by some “a walking encyclopedia of coffee” (Florence Fabricant, food columnist, The Recent York Times, 1993), George Howell’s mission in the coffee industry is elementary – to empower consumers to appreciate and seek out the best coffees available. Throughout his career, he has made every effort to ensure the highest quality of his products, comparing great coffee to the best coffee, not only for his consumers, but also for the producers he directly sources from around the world. During his travels to many coffee-producing countries (including Colombia, India, Sumatra, Brazil, Nicaragua, Guatemala, Mexico and Peru), George combined his expertise with that of roasters and brewers to emphasize precision and care from basic techniques such as cultivation and direct sourcing, through to packaging and pouring the perfect cup. His company was the first to freeze raw green coffee, paving the way for long-term storage and allowing great vintages to survive seasonality.
For the past 50 years, George has visited Origin to meet with farms and their communities, striving to develop relationships and improve infrastructure. He has built genuine relationships with high-quality manufacturers around the world, which has allowed him to develop a competitive and fair direct trade policy. The policy is to pay a fair price – determined by the manufacturer and buyer – based on a sliding quality scale designed to encourage the highest possible standards. Creating sustainable economic development models for coffee farmers, George created and co-founded the Cup of Excellence. This program, still implemented today, was intended to aid break the commodity and price cycle in the specialty coffee industry. In 2004, he founded the George Howell Coffee company, and in 2007 Howell received the highest distinction of the European Specialty Coffee Association – Better Coffee World Award.
The beginning of George’s story can be described as an avid coffee drinker in Boston who was fed up with stale, lithe roasted coffee. To resolve his frustration, George opened his first coffee shop in 1975, The Coffee Connection, located in Harvard Square in Cambridge. Over 19 years, through his expertise and persistence, The Coffee Connection has grown to 24 company-owned stores, pioneering coffee as a noble beverage worthy of being in the same league as fine wine. In 1994, George sold The Coffee Connection to Starbucks Coffee Company so he could spend time with his family and pursue his true love: identifying, roasting and discovering the highest quality coffees possible. Just two years later, the Specialty Coffee Association of America (SCAA) presented him with a Lifetime Achievement Award for raising the standards of specialty coffee quality through the Massachusetts-based company. He also worked for the United Nations and the International Coffee Organization as a coffee quality consultant and still runs many successful coffee shops in Massachusetts today.
How many years have you worked in the coffee industry in total?
50
What was your first coffee job?
As founder and president of The Coffee Connection.
Is there a person or people who mentored you at the beginning of your coffee career?
Erna Knutsen.
What is your current role in coffee?
President George Howell Coffee (2003–present)
What aspect of the coffee industry has changed the most over the course of your career?
Variety and quality.
What else surprises you about coffee today or makes you joyful?
Discovering up-to-date exquisite coffees and journeying back to origins.
What is the thing about the coffee industry that you would most like to see change?
CVAand the return of flavored coffee from the 1980s dressed in infusion.
Do you make coffee at home? If so, tell us how you brew!
Yes. For consistency I utilize EK43 and Ratio 6.
What is your favorite song/music for making coffee?
I’ve never made a connection like that!
What is your idea of coffee happiness?
Drinking a sweet, tidy and intricate coffee, reaching around 120 F in a myriad of coffee-fruity-floral notes combined (they can be subtle!) and perfectly harmonized without any harsh edges.
What one piece of advice would you give to people starting a career in the coffee industry today?
Good luck! A time of crisis as consumers stand still while the United States reels in uncertain times. Stop.
