Experimental, pioneering and derived from antique Japanese culinary customs, koji coffee proves that the future of coffee may lie in fermentation.
A mushroom of staggering complexity, koji starts diminutive – with the powerful conversion of starch to sugar occurring at an almost microscopic level – but brings a powerful burst of flavor to the dishes it composes. Although it is no stranger to the table, providing the base for soy sauce and the salty bite of tsukemono marinades, and appearing as a common ingredient in Japanese drinks (such as the national drink brewed in Japan, sake), koji has remained primarily within the realm of Japanese cuisine.
However, as fermentation continued to enter the repertoire of intrepid culinary pioneers like Noma, the powerful mold made its way onto the international stage and even one step further into cups of coffee. And while coffee connoisseurs are concerned with the transformative power of fermentation, from winemaking-inspired carbonic maceration to the natural process of organic fermentation that occurs when drying coffee berries, koji remains relatively unexplored outside select scenes.
From miso to macchiato, this powerful mold may now redefine the meaning of fermentation, turning koji’s centuries-old culinary wisdom into the next wave of coffee innovation.
Read “Bold Form: Exploring the World of Koji in Coffee” on Sprudge Special Projects
The original of this story appeared on Sprudge Special Projects in an article by Tokyo-based journalist Taylor Bond.
The Office of Special Projects is the hub for Sprudge’s extensive original journalism and curated archival content. Since 2009, Sprudge has been the world’s premier home for thought-provoking coffee journalism, evocative photo essays, in-depth design analysis and cultural narratives. The Office of Special Projects continues this tradition in 2025 and beyond by presenting exceptional work in the field of coffee journalism.
The Special Projects Office is supported by La Marzocoproducing handmade coffee machines in Florence, Italy since 1927. Their mission is to support the development of specialty coffee; believe that increasing knowledge and understanding is the best way to ensure a successful future for the coffee industry.
Sprudge actively seeks proposals for longer texts about coffee – from both established and emerging journalists – with no language or experience requirements. For more information, please contact us.
